Book & The Arts

There's Still Hope for Wayang Orang

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Written by Adji Soedibjo

Wednesday, 04 January 2012

Bima (on the right) has dialogue with Arjuna (sitting on the floor)Bima (on the right) has dialogue with Arjuna (sitting on the floor)Wayang Orang first emerged in the 18th century when KGPAA Mangkunegoro I, one of Solo's ruling kings of Central Java was inspired by Europe's performing arts of the time and thus resulted in the creation of this unique art form. When Paku Buwono X, the other concurrently ruling king of Solo, officially inaugurated Taman Sriwedari as an amusement park for the public in 1899, the first Wayang Orang show took place, where it incidentally remains until now. Over the years, Wayang Orang Sriwedari has become a pioneer in conserving the nation's culture, including the art of wayang, traditional dances and costumes, vocal as well as Javanese gamelan orchestras.

Many of these Javanese stage shows performed by dancers are based on stories adapted from the Mahabarata and the Ramayana, epics containing moral lessons reflected through the philosophy of local culture and society. The artistic stage design for these shows offers a uniquely enjoyable glimpse into this 'once upon a time' atmosphere. On occasion, this uniquely Javanese art form sometimes shows actors and actresses from Sriwedari, RRI Semarang and Surabaya perform these shows together.Wayang Orang theater at Taman SriwedariWayang Orang theater at Taman Sriwedari

You can watch the Wayang Orang performance at Taman Sriwedari for a mere Rp. 3000,- (approximately $3). The theater itself is well equipped, with stage lights as well as changing scene backgrounds customized for each of the different episodes every evening. The Wayang Orang theater always holds a nightly show whether spectators attend or not. Dancers prepare for their roles in costumes and make-up, according to the story, without fail every evening. The dancers range in age from 20 to over 60 years old and remain invariably devoted to their careers and committed to their art throughout their lives, regardless of the low cost of admission or, indeed, their low wages.

Wayang Orang shows typically begin at 8 pm and open with the chanting of a traditional song by the Sinden (female singer). The entire troupe of dancers, show director, musicians and stage crew always strives to give their very best every night of each show. Every evening a Wayang Orang show presents different episodes or stories in line with pasaran or the Javanese version of a five-day week, instead of the more common seven-day week we are accustomed to. The show director, musicians and singers together form a Javanese gamelan orchestra, and their role is to accompany the show with an arsenal of dynamic music.

The whole stage with dancersThe whole stage with dancersOn July 10, 1910, the theater was officially declared the center of Wayang Orang, and it has remained so until this day. Wayang Orang enthusiasts are not only confined to local audiences, but also include many foreign visitors to Solo. At its heyday in the 1960s until the mid 1980s, Wayang Orang Sriwedari could count on around 2,000 visitors per month back then. Every night people packed the theater to watch their favorite actors or actresses. Since then the gradual and unavoidable decline in popularity has taken its toll on these performances due to stiff competition from movie theaters, music concerts as well as the flourishing of café establishments, steering patronage away from this once revered art. It's no surprise either that over the past ten years hardly any youngsters come to watch the shows anymore. Only the elderly are still dedicated to the old-fashioned Wayang Orang shows.

A major effort to bring back the popularity of Wayang Orang has been underway. In 1994, the Japanese government provided Rp 800 million and the local government chipped in another Rp 200 million to renovate Taman Sriwedari, including its Wayang Orang theater. Even before this effort, the government of Solo decided to provide welfare assistance to the entire entourage of the Wayang Orang, and appointed them as civil servants.The gamelan orchestra is right in front of the stageThe gamelan orchestra is right in front of the stage

Even after 17 years of refurbishment, it's quite discouraging to see the present state of the playhouse. The theater's roof is partly damaged and the decoration has turned quite dull. Nevertheless, the sound system remains strong and clear, enabling the audience to listen to the dialogue with ease and clarity. It's not an easy task to regain the public's appreciation, but nothing is impossible when a group of Wayang Orang lovers come together to rejuvenate this dying art form, ensuring that it remains the distinctly unique form of traditional entertainment for many more years to come.

 
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